Happenings 13 - 2008 June to December

Australia, Borneo & South China Seas

Mid June 2008, only five days after our return to Sebana Cove Marina from land travels in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia (reported in ‘H-12’), Bruce flies out of Singapore for Thursday Island to help twin brother John pack and relocate back to Brisbane.

Thursday Island Panorama

John’s career with Q’ld Health had been medically terminated following assessment of his suffering early Alzheimer’s, so I went to help out. Six days later we departed this beautiful little island which was home to my parents during their earlier life, and flew to Brisbane, where it took a further five weeks to find suitable accommodation for John in a retirement village, and unpack his 270 cartons!

Meanwhile Audrey sailed with other cruising friends to Kuching in Sarawak, Borneo to attend the annual ‘Rain Forrest Music Festival’, which we’d planned and prepaid weeks before. ‘Muso’s’ from all around the globe are invited to perform their unique ‘ethno-music’ over this popular three day outdoor event. Audrey then flew back to ‘Envy’ at Sebana Cove Marina in Malaysia, just across the strait from Singapore, to where I returned on 3 August 2008.

On the foredeck of Muscat, Audrey, Sue from Court Jester and Alison from Muscat on the Santabong River, Kuching, Sarawak.

One week later ‘Envy’ departs on our 640 n/mile non-stop South China Sea passage to Borneo and that first afternoon we got caught in a so-called “Sumatra”, gale-force winds of 30/45 kts (mostly above 40kts) and totally unrelenting for half an hour. Then on day three, just about half way across this vast sea, we copped another belting where it howled a strong gale to 46 kts for an hour, and bucketed down rain as well. On both occasions we just held ‘Envy’ head to wind and rode it out – some days at sea are just soooo much fun!

We quickly prepare Envy for the storm coming from behind

Then shortly after midnight on day four, sailing under a waxing three-quarter moon, a huge flying fish (alias - missile) landed in the cockpit narrowly missing Audrey who was standing watch, and by daylight the wind had died so we were motoring on an oily smooth sea. Passed downwind of two very smelly fishing boats during the morning and that afternoon had a pod of nine playful Dolphins frolicking at the bow; and for as long as we stayed and watched, they continued their skylarking performance of dives, rolls and flips.

One of the playful dolphins

The sea was a lovely mid blue colour and as clear as crystal, though we did have close shaves with two large floating logs and a truly huge tree root-bulb floating close by; we shudder to think of what goes silently floating by unseen in the darkness, though on more than one occasion we have felt a bump in the middle of the night, and ‘Envy’s’ bow has a few waterline chips as testament to this. Borneo waters are notorious for large logs that flow down jungle streams into the open sea, and navigating log strewn inland rivers is a daytime job - not for the feint hearted.

Floating log off the Borneo Coast

At 0800 hrs on day six we arrive at our destination, Miri Marina in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, after 120 hours non-stop at sea, having averaged 5.3kts. Many of our close cruising friends were already there and we celebrated our arrival with a get-together that evening in a carnival spirit that extended for the next ten days.

Cruisers 'get-together' at Miri Marina, Sarawak

A couple of days later we were off again, heading north to Labuan Island, to participate in the 5th annual Borneo International Yachting Challenge, http://www.borneorace.com/ a regatta series of sailboat races held both at Labuan in Sabah state and Miri in adjoining Sarawak state. There is an additional 110 nm overnight passage race between the two cities, which are separated by the tiny, fabulously oil-rich nation/state of Brunei, with its many brightly lit oil-rig platforms which clutter its coastal seas, together with those of neighbouring Sarawak.

We were happy to pass this Oil Rig Platform during the day

Since Brunei's sandy coastline is about 120km of straight exposed beach, the Sultan spent $millions building a protected artificial harbour large enough for multi-qquatic activities, complete with 'Disneyland' type entertainment claimed to be the biggest in the world, as a gift to his people. The Facility is called Jerudong Park, and we stopped there in perfectly calm conditions enroute to Labuan, but didn't see any aquatic or on-shore activity whatever. The sandy beach of its island entrance was a perfect spot to relax and share 'sundowners' watching the colourful sunset.

Sunset at Jerudong Park

But not everything is beer and skittles in wealthy Brunei. We've heard talk, some visiting Aussie yachts have recently got a hard time from Brunei officials when entering. The story has it that the Sultan’s brother Prince Geoffrey, who owns a large cattle station in the NT, was in the habit of casually jetting in and out of Oz in his private plane without clearing Customs or Quarantine, and took exception to having this practice stopped. So it’s official ‘un-official’ payback for Aussies.

Another Gala Dinner

To boost participation and massage tourism, all competitors are paid US$400 and given two nights’ free accommodation at 5 star hotels in both Labuan and Miri, plus gala dinners and entertainment at no cost; it is certainly an incentive to lure cruising yachties away from peninsular Malaysia to out-of-the-way Borneo.

Welcome to the Labuan Gala Dinner

Traditional Dancer at the Labuan Welcome

Trophy Presentation at Labuan

About 25 cruising yachties were competing and we were delighted to get a 2nd and two 3rd placings in our division for the three events. Aud's mum Lavinia was on board as crew, having flown in from Brisbane to join us for a two weeks’ visit, and we spread the ‘word’ that we had imported a special octogenarian international racing tactician from Australia!

Start of the Overnight Race from Labuan to Miri

At the trophy Presentation Dinner upon conclusion of the Regatta in Miri, I was asked, with little forewarning, to offer official thanks to the Minister for Tourism and his delegates, Trophy Sponsors and Race Officials, as spokensman on behalf of the competitors. The total surprise of this got my heartbeat going, my blood alcohol count plummeting and my meal abandoned as I scribbled thoughts on my table napkin, but miraculously it all went off OK, with a standing ovation to the officials.

Bruce thanking the Officials and Sponsors on behalf of the Competitors

Trophy Presentation at Miri

Now that the Regatta was over, Lavinia, Audrey and I left 'Envy' at Miri Marina and flew down to Kuching, (Chinese for Cat) the capital of Malaysian Sarawak and widely considered ‘the pearl of the Orient’ with its well kept commons and general parkland appearance.

During our six days there we stayed in a very comfortable riverside high-rise hotel and visited every-thing worthwhile seeing around town, including their famous 'Cat Museum', entirely devoted to any-thing and everything feline. We even had another close encounter with Orangutans in the wild at a small reserve not far from the city. The red-haired residents were quite used to humans and would pass us very closely by with scarcely a second glance. By their standards, no doubt, they probably considered us quite ugly.

Cat Museum, Kuching

Who are all these people bothering me?!!!

Audrey and Lavinia, Riverfront Esplanade, Kuching

Streetscape, Kuching

Lavinia departed for Australia and we flew back to Miri on 5 September from where, a few days later, we commenced the 600nm passage back to 'duty free' Tioman Island off eastern peninsular Malaysia. The night sky, under a fine full moon, was ablaze with light from the many offshore oil-rig platforms, and the following day (#2) several large copper banded sea snakes, two logs and three dolphins passed us closely by.

A strange phenomenon also occurred that same day about 200 km offshore; four Swallows paid us a visit, circling the boat then stopping for a rest. Two birds sat on the radar tower for several hours, but one Swallow sat on Bruce’s shoulder and another in Audrey’s lap where they remained for some minutes before seeking quieter refuge elsewhere. They appeared exhausted and beyond fear or caring.

Our theory is they hitch-hike a ride out to sea on fishing boats and then for whatever reason decide to return to land but find the distance too much for their small wings; they are unable to rest in the water as sea birds do, so continually fly til they’re worn out. Two were missing next morning and two were found dead on the boat.

Half way across the South China Sea drama began when ‘Envy’s’ alternator died and with it our electrical generating capacity, which meant no power for lights, ship’s radio, radar, electronic navigational and other safety equipment, so for the next three days our 2kva Honda auxiliary petrol generator sat strapped to the deck providing the essential power requirements.

We made landfall after a five day passage just after midnight in a small bay at Aur Island where our cruising companions ‘Court Jester’ and ‘Jaraman’ had arrived two hours earlier. Noted for its good diving, we spent two days at Aur Island snorkelling and recovering from our sleep deprived crossing, then moved on the 35nm to Tioman Island.

Can’t imagine why Tioman Island is ‘duty free’ – it’s a tiny little unremarkable island with a small new marina; it boasts little more than modest backpacker accommodation and a handful of very basic cafes and souvenir shops. But it’s a pretty little place, with a good marina, and a two hour ($25 return) ferry service to the reasonable sized mainland town of Mersing for shopping, supplies and spare parts. There were very few tourists to be seen on Tioman, and its ‘duty free’ shopping was not very cheap.

Quiet Main Street of Tioman Island

After one week at Tioman Island, which included two visits to Mersing for alternator repairs, ‘Envy’ then island hopped in company with ‘Court Jester’ and ‘Muscat’. On the way we were puzzled by some dark spots coming over the horizon ahead, which looked like distant tiny islands but none were shown on our chart and upon closer approach turned out to be buildings sitting on posts, many kilometres off the coast, in seas of 15/20 metres depth. We think they are fishing holiday complexes.

'Sea Building' off the East Coast of Malaysia

For seven days we headed southwards through the Tioman group, visiting North Sribuat, Tingi, and the Rimba Resort on Sibu Island, plus an overnight stop at Lompat Point enroute back to Sebana Cove Marina where we stayed for only a short three day stopover. On this passage one of our group suffered engine problems and, with the little breeze to sail, was towed for much of the way.

'Court Jester' preparing to tow 'Muscat'

Then we went upmarket, moving ‘Envy’ across to the flash ‘Oneº 15’ Marina at Singapore’s exclusive Sentosa Island where we spent two weeks doing maintenance and shopped til we dropped! After several visits over two plus years, we’re getting to know our way around the island pretty well.

One Degree 15 Marina - Behind 'Envy' the new Residential Towers on Sentosa Island

A further 14 days were spent sailing easy day-hops up Malaysia’s now familiar west coast to Penang, where we purchased a new air-conditioner for the boat. In this climate you can’t live without it. Bruce is having dental ‘implant’ work done here for less than half the cost back home.

Ten days later we departed exciting Penang, the ‘culinary capital’ of Malaysia, for the final two day hop back up to our Rebak Marina 'home base' at Langkawi. Audrey’s birthday was celebrated enroute with a swim and beach BBQ at our favourite, small and cosy Lovers Bay, in company with our two cruising yacht friends.

We spent two weeks in Rebak Marina preparing ‘Envy’ and ourselves for our imminent departure back to Australia for three months holiday, where we arrived on an Air Asia flight at Coolangatta early morning on December 2nd 2008.

'Envy' de-commissioned at Rebak Marina for our return to Australia

Like Jekyll & Hyde, we’d left one lifestyle behind in SE Asia and were returning to our other in Oz.

The adventure continues soon in ‘H-14’.