Yacht Envy "HAPPENINGS": KKK No 8 Kununurra - Derby

“K K K”

(‘Kimberley Karavan Kapers’ - Bruce and Audrey)

No: 8

Kununurra – Derby – Broome

It’s Wednesday 2 July, day 88, and we’re “back in the saddle again”, as they say, heading off down the challenging Gibb River Road on our second attempt to traverse the heart of the Kimberley, one of the Nation’s few remaining 4WD ‘frontier’ roads, apart from the sandy desert tracks.

The Gibb River Road was originally constructed as a beef road to transport cattle from surrounding stations to the ports of Derby and Wyndham, and travels some 700km through the central Kimberley Plateau, with its scenic beauty and grandeur, unusual landscapes, many gorges, waterfalls, Boab trees and red dust. The ‘Wet’ forces the Gibbs official closure for a few months and fines apply to travellers who breach the Restrictions.

The Gibb’s now had 18 more days of traffic and subsequent deterioration since our previous attempt and, like a thrown rider, I’m a little spooked about getting back on the horse, but determined to accomplish our goal. We soon discovered our apprehension was well grounded once we ‘hit the dirt’, with kilometre upon kilometre of dislodged sharp stones and corrugations noticeably worse in some places than previously.

Emma Gorge

Not far along we reached El Questro Wilderness Park, home to Emma Gorge and did the 1.6km, hour long slog each way, quite a challenging walk, climb and rock crawl into this marvellous natural wonder, but ever so much worth the effort – simply stunning. Two waterfalls cascade 65mtrs (200 ft) down sheer red cliffs into a large deep pool, its cool clear waters hosting several hardy swimmers.

Other scenic rewards were there also as we once again enjoyed the grandeur of the Cockburn Range with its stunning plateau topped jump-up, plus the thrill of our third fording of the wide, stony bed of the Pentecost River.

Then a “brief taste of Heaven” occurred with an all too short 20km of newly graded road along which we raced at dizzying speed, up to 75kph, rather than our usual 50kph! Soon we arrived at our previously used, sheltered roadside gravel pit where we enjoyed another quiet night. The weather continues fine, with warm days and cool nights.

Day two finds us driving through km after km of recently burnt out, unremarkable red rocky country with savage corrugations in places, through the now dry Bindoola Creek bed, past the harsh, steep and rugged terrain of Gregories and Rollies Jumpups, thru Mosquito Hills with ridge after ridge interspersed with dry eroded floodways, and much hard sharp rock on the road. And all the while, clouds of billowing red dust - and more dust – everywhere.

Two abandoned 4WD’s and several tyre carcasses give testament to the harshness of this 4WD shortcut, a saving of over 300km from the Great Northern Highway through Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing, with a recommended top speed of 60kph.

Some of the better Grazing country

Onwards we continue past “Ellenbrae Station” turnoff, with no deviation for Devonshire Tea this time, and remark on how much more traffic is on the road than 18 days earlier. The excessive speed that some idiots drive at amazes us as we watch their suspensions hammering frighteningly over the corrugations, especially in hired 4WD’s.

Past Russ Creek with its Lilly covered waterhole and prolific stand of red Rosella plants and then we’re on the 1km strip of ‘black top’ than spans the Gibb Range, up and over the second ridge where we stop at the bottom to revisit our “old residential address” of four days, 2 weeks’ previously!

The eucalypt suckers and dead grass remains flattened – proof of recent habitation, but no tears are shed, and with a photo of the vacant lot for posterity, we’re back on the road once more with anticipation of new scenery around every bend.

Eleven kilometres on we take the far more infamous Kalumburu Road northwards for a few km looking for a lakeside camping spot, but unable to find it by Plain Creek, we returned part way and freedom camped on the sandy bank at the Gibb River crossing, with several others.

Two cranky old Brahman Bulls passed through, loudly voicing their disapproval at our trespass, but our Bower Bird neighbour close by was far less offended by our presence; he continued to woo his ladybird, repeatedly bringing her through his bower to reveal the cache of all things shiny – small white pebbles, clear plastic, sparkling glass chips, blue plastic, silver foil, and 2 shinny coins, a 10c and a 5c. We can’t imagine how he got them, but we were so impressed we decided to invest in his love life and added another 10 and two shiny 5c pieces, and hope it adds to a successful outcome.

Bower Bird with his wealth

Off again in the morning on the 105km run through lovely open grasslands shaded with various eucalypts, bauhinias and associated timbers and interspersed with occasional water crossings. We forded Bryce and Mistake Creeks, followed by the Hann River and Snake Creek, and then took a very rough track for a very slow 3km into Bartlett River Gorge where we had smoko beside a downstream pool.

One of many Creek crossings

Back out on the GR Road, we followed the Barnett Range, an attractive red topped jump-up for several kilometres before fording the Barnett River and shortly thereafter arrived at the Mt Bartlett Roadhouse, approximately half way along ‘the Gibb’, where we filled up with Petrol at $2.50/ltr. It is owned and run by the local aboriginal community.

The Manning Gorge campground nestles beside the Manning River 7km out back from the Roadhouse and we set up there for the night. The river at the camp has a lovely clear sandy and rock bottomed pool, which must be crossed to view the lovely Manning Gorge. Not so long ago one had to swim the 60mtr waterhole to start the 2km trek but a small aluminium punt allows a crossing by a pull-it-yourself rope and pulley system.

DIY Crossing

Typical "easy" gorge walk!

We crossed the next morning, the first starters at 7am, for the 3 hour, strenuous ‘class 4’ return walk to Manning Gorge. The walk, like most of the Gorge walks in the Kimberley, requires more effort than the glossy tourist brochures elude, many with little scenic interest along the way, but the reward comes at the end and Manning is certainly worth the effort. The Gorge walls, waterfall, pristine rock pool, aboriginal art, the vibrant colours and rock formations all make for a rewarding experience.

Manning Gorge

It was only mid morning following our return from the Gorge and having seen all of interest we decided to be off. This next section was, in places, as roughly corrugated and stony as any before, through only fair grazing country with very low quality, inbred Brahman cross breeders, as was often the case in Aboriginal Land Council controlled cattle stations.

Soon after we reached the Imintji aboriginal community whose BIG little store on the Gibb sells groceries and Diesel fuel, but no petrol; we stopped for an Ice Cream before continuing on to the Mt Bell Lookout, with its panoramic outlook over nothing particularly exciting, and a little farther on is our next overnight stop, where we freedom camped beside the creek at green and shady March Fly Glen. (No March Flies or any insects).

It had been many days since our last campfire so ‘pyromaniacal Bruce’ went scavenging firewood and, in company with our new caravanning ‘neighbours’, Peter and Jane from Perth, shared a bonzer fire and good conversation over a bottle of Red.

The Firewood Scavenger

Early next morning finds us out on the road heading past Galvan’s Gorge – today we’ve got a bigger gorge in mind, fording the Adcock River, on past Stumpy’s Jumpup and through Napier Downs Station (Audrey never told me about that!) and soon after crossing the Lennard River we take the Leopold Downs Road 21km in to Windjana Gorge National Park.

The floodwaters of the Lennard River have carved a 3.5km long Gorge through the limestone of the Napier Range, and for most of the year only pools of water are found in the Gorge for the river only flows during the wet.

Geologists regard the Gorge as one of the classic features of world geology, for nowhere else are various deposits of an ancient reef complex so well exposed as they are at Windjana. Fossils of shells and the creatures that lived in Devonian times can be seen preserved in the 100 metre high limestone walls. Fresh water Crocodiles are plentiful as is their diet of archer fish, cherabin and bream.

We set up camp at Windjana together with over 150 other tourists and, after lunch, leave the Karavan and drive a further 37km of rotten road on to Tunnel Creek National Park, a major highlight of the trip so far.

Tunnel Creek Entrance

Over millennia Tunnel Creek has carved its way underground through the limestone, resulting in a 750 metre long cavernous tunnel and during the dry season it is possible to walk through the creek, which is cold and over knee deep. Armed with flashlights and camera, we did the walk and marvelled at the ‘artistic complexity’ of the high eroded ceilings and the giant stalactites that graced them. A further boon was two pieces of aboriginal art on the rock face at the far entrance to the tunnel.

Aboriginal Wall Art

Next morning we did the 7km return walk through Windjana Gorge, with its 180 million year old imposing sandstone cliffs overlooking long waterholes in which freshwater Crocodiles were sunning themselves. A most interesting and enjoyable three hour walk.

Windjana Gorge

A couple of the locals!

We departed Windjana early next morning, but 5 minutes too late to avoid being caught up in the group of 55 Motorcyclists riding Postman’s small 110cc Hondas on an annual Police fundraiser up the Gibb. Crazy – two riders were ‘thrown’ in the first rough 20km back out to the Gibb Road junction, in addition to the WA Police Commissioner who was unseated the previous day.

Motor Cyclists on Police Fundraiser

Anyway, we turned left for Derby and soon we were on the ‘black top’ with the horrors of the Gibb River corrugations, stones, river crossings, washouts and general ruggedness now behind us.

Derby is a pretty little place on King Sound, with wide shaded streets, but no definable CBD, has a sizable aboriginal presence and many Boab trees. We booked in, then went exploring the town, taking in a large art exhibition, the old gaol, hollow Boab Prison Tree, and waterfront at the port jetty.

Old "Open' Derby Gaol

Hollow Boab Prison Tree

Derby has the greatest tidal range of anywhere in Australia, up to 11.8 metres at HW Springs. Nova Scotia's Bay of Fundy in Canada has the world’s highest tidal range 15m.

Derby plays host to Western Australia’s largest Indigenous cultural event, the annual Mowanjum Festival which highlights West Kimberley aboriginal culture, encompassing their art, with fully costumed corroborees, song and dance, all open to the general public.

The famous Wandjana art featured in Sydney’s 2000 Olympic Games opening ceremony.

Wandjana Spirit - Mowanjum Art

Word had reached us that the Jetty Restaurant at the Port was the best in town - fine seafood dining watching the Sunset over the water, which we thoroughly enjoyed the next night prior to departure the following morning.

Sunset at Jetty Restaurant, Derby

About 100km south we stopped at the Nillibubbica Rest Area, joining 35/40 others for the night, and by 7:15 next morning we’re on the 105km leg into Broome, with its grossly inflated ‘seasonal’ campsite fees up to $60/day, but we’d heard the Pistol Club had powered sites for $35 so we stopped there.

Broome was founded as a pearling port in the 1870’s and remains steeped in the history of Pearls. Named for WA Governor Broome in 1883, it is a colourful, welcoming touristy town based now on its cultured Pearl industry, since the 1950’s, and cattle grazing.

Roebuck Bay Foreshore

The town has a fresh, modern appearance, and the bright turquoise waters of Roebuck Bay contrast appealingly with the red rocky foreshores of this unique peninsular.

Dampier Terrace, the Street of Pearls in ‘old’ Broome’s Chinatown is as vibrant as Surfers Paradise, and Saturday’s Arts and Crafts Market a plethora of stalls. A Chinese lady makes lovely high quality Doonas, filled with cocoons of imported natural pure Silk, and one of these now covers our bed.

Cable Beach at Sunset

A must do in Broome is to join the throngs of people who watch tourist Camel Rides along Cable Beach at Sunset, while enjoying nibbles and champagne from the grassy hilltop, and we did just that. Another is to see the ‘Stairway to the Moon’, a natural phenomenon which occurs at low tide when the Full Moon rises above the Horizon to reflect a stairway reflection across tidal flats back to the viewer, which we’ll do this evening.