“K K K”
(‘Kimberley
Karavan Kapers’ - Bruce and Audrey)
No: 8
Kununurra – Derby – Broome
It’s
Wednesday 2 July, day 88, and we’re “back in the saddle again”, as they say,
heading off down the challenging Gibb
River Road on our second attempt to traverse the heart of the Kimberley,
one of the Nation’s few remaining 4WD ‘frontier’ roads, apart from the sandy desert
tracks.
The
Gibb River Road
was originally constructed as a beef road to transport cattle from surrounding
stations to the ports of Derby
and Wyndham, and travels some 700km through the central Kimberley Plateau, with its scenic beauty and grandeur, unusual
landscapes, many gorges, waterfalls, Boab trees and red dust. The ‘Wet’ forces the
Gibbs official closure for a few months and fines apply to travellers who
breach the Restrictions.
The
Gibb’s now had 18 more days of traffic and subsequent deterioration since our
previous attempt and, like a thrown rider, I’m a little spooked about getting
back on the horse, but determined to accomplish our goal. We soon discovered our
apprehension was well grounded once we ‘hit the dirt’, with kilometre upon
kilometre of dislodged sharp stones and corrugations noticeably worse in some
places than previously.
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| Emma Gorge |
Not
far along we reached El Questro
Wilderness Park, home to Emma Gorge
and did the 1.6km, hour long slog each way, quite a challenging walk, climb and
rock crawl into this marvellous natural wonder, but ever so much worth the
effort – simply stunning. Two waterfalls cascade 65mtrs (200 ft) down sheer red
cliffs into a large deep pool, its cool clear waters hosting several hardy
swimmers.
Other
scenic rewards were there also as we once again enjoyed the grandeur of the Cockburn Range with its stunning
plateau topped jump-up, plus the thrill of our third fording of the wide, stony
bed of the Pentecost River.
Then
a “brief taste of Heaven” occurred with an all too short 20km of newly graded
road along which we raced at dizzying speed, up to 75kph, rather than our usual
50kph! Soon we arrived at our previously used, sheltered roadside gravel pit
where we enjoyed another quiet night. The weather continues fine, with warm
days and cool nights.
Day
two finds us driving through km after km of recently burnt out, unremarkable
red rocky country with savage corrugations in places, through the now dry
Bindoola Creek bed, past the harsh, steep and rugged terrain of Gregories and
Rollies Jumpups, thru Mosquito Hills with ridge after ridge interspersed with
dry eroded floodways, and much hard sharp rock on the road. And all the while,
clouds of billowing red dust - and more dust – everywhere.
Two
abandoned 4WD’s and several tyre carcasses give testament to the harshness of
this 4WD shortcut, a saving of over 300km from the Great Northern Highway through Halls Creek
and Fitzroy Crossing, with a recommended top speed of 60kph.
 |
| Some of the better Grazing country |
Onwards
we continue past “Ellenbrae Station”
turnoff, with no deviation for Devonshire Tea this time, and remark on how much
more traffic is on the road than 18 days earlier. The excessive speed that some
idiots drive at amazes us as we watch their suspensions hammering frighteningly
over the corrugations, especially in hired 4WD’s.
Past
Russ Creek
with its Lilly covered waterhole and prolific stand of red Rosella plants and
then we’re on the 1km strip of ‘black top’ than spans the Gibb Range,
up and over the second ridge where we stop at the bottom to revisit our “old
residential address” of four days, 2 weeks’ previously!
The
eucalypt suckers and dead grass remains flattened – proof of recent habitation,
but no tears are shed, and with a photo of the vacant lot for posterity, we’re
back on the road once more with anticipation of new scenery around every bend.
Eleven
kilometres on we take the far more infamous Kalumburu Road northwards for a few km looking for a lakeside
camping spot, but unable to find it by Plain Creek, we returned part way and
freedom camped on the sandy bank at the Gibb River crossing, with several
others.
Two
cranky old Brahman Bulls passed through, loudly voicing their disapproval at
our trespass, but our Bower Bird neighbour close by was far less offended by
our presence; he continued to woo his ladybird, repeatedly bringing her through
his bower to reveal the cache of all things shiny – small white pebbles, clear
plastic, sparkling glass chips, blue plastic, silver foil, and 2 shinny coins, a
10c and a 5c. We can’t imagine how he got them, but we were so impressed we
decided to invest in his love life and added another 10 and two shiny 5c
pieces, and hope it adds to a successful outcome.
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| Bower Bird with his wealth |
Off
again in the morning on the 105km run through lovely open grasslands shaded
with various eucalypts, bauhinias and associated timbers and interspersed with
occasional water crossings. We forded Bryce and Mistake Creeks, followed by the
Hann River and Snake Creek, and then took a
very rough track for a very slow 3km into Bartlett
River Gorge where we had smoko beside a downstream pool.
 |
| One of many Creek crossings |
Back
out on the GR Road, we followed the Barnett Range, an attractive red topped
jump-up for several kilometres before fording the Barnett River and shortly
thereafter arrived at the Mt Bartlett
Roadhouse, approximately half way along ‘the Gibb’, where we filled up with
Petrol at $2.50/ltr. It is owned and run by the local aboriginal community.
The
Manning Gorge campground nestles beside the Manning River
7km out back from the Roadhouse and we set up there for the night. The river at
the camp has a lovely clear sandy and rock bottomed pool, which must be crossed
to view the lovely Manning Gorge.
Not so long ago one had to swim the 60mtr waterhole to start the 2km trek but a
small aluminium punt allows a crossing by a pull-it-yourself rope and pulley
system.
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| DIY Crossing |
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| Typical "easy" gorge walk! |
We
crossed the next morning, the first starters at 7am, for the 3 hour, strenuous
‘class 4’ return walk to Manning Gorge.
The walk, like most of the Gorge walks in the Kimberley, requires more effort than the
glossy tourist brochures elude, many with little scenic interest along the way,
but the reward comes at the end and Manning is certainly worth the effort. The
Gorge walls, waterfall, pristine rock pool, aboriginal art, the vibrant colours
and rock formations all make for a rewarding experience.
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| Manning Gorge |
It
was only mid morning following our return from the Gorge and having seen all of
interest we decided to be off. This next section was, in places, as roughly
corrugated and stony as any before, through only fair grazing country with very
low quality, inbred Brahman cross breeders, as was often the case in Aboriginal
Land Council controlled cattle stations.
Soon
after we reached the Imintji aboriginal
community whose BIG little store on the Gibb sells groceries and Diesel fuel,
but no petrol; we stopped for an Ice Cream before continuing on to the Mt Bell
Lookout, with its panoramic outlook over nothing particularly exciting, and a
little farther on is our next overnight stop, where we freedom camped beside
the creek at green and shady March Fly
Glen. (No March Flies or any insects).
It
had been many days since our last campfire so ‘pyromaniacal Bruce’ went
scavenging firewood and, in company with our new caravanning ‘neighbours’,
Peter and Jane from Perth, shared a bonzer fire and good conversation over a
bottle of Red.
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| The Firewood Scavenger |
Early
next morning finds us out on the road heading past Galvan’s Gorge – today we’ve
got a bigger gorge in mind, fording the Adcock River, on past Stumpy’s Jumpup
and through Napier Downs Station (Audrey never told me about that!) and soon
after crossing the Lennard River we take the Leopold Downs Road 21km in to Windjana Gorge National Park.
The
floodwaters of the Lennard River have carved a 3.5km long Gorge through the
limestone of the Napier Range, and for most of the year only pools of water are
found in the Gorge for the river only flows during the wet.
Geologists
regard the Gorge as one of the classic features of world geology, for nowhere
else are various deposits of an ancient reef complex so well exposed as they
are at Windjana. Fossils of shells and the creatures that lived in Devonian
times can be seen preserved in the 100 metre high limestone walls. Fresh water
Crocodiles are plentiful as is their diet of archer fish, cherabin and bream.
We
set up camp at Windjana together with over 150 other tourists and, after lunch,
leave the Karavan and drive a further 37km of rotten road on to Tunnel Creek National Park, a major
highlight of the trip so far.
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| Tunnel Creek Entrance |
Over
millennia Tunnel Creek has carved
its way underground through the limestone, resulting in a 750 metre long
cavernous tunnel and during the dry season it is possible to walk through the
creek, which is cold and over knee deep. Armed with flashlights and camera, we
did the walk and marvelled at the ‘artistic complexity’ of the high eroded
ceilings and the giant stalactites that graced them. A further boon was two
pieces of aboriginal art on the rock face at the far entrance to the tunnel.
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| Aboriginal Wall Art |
Next
morning we did the 7km return walk through Windjana
Gorge, with its 180 million year old imposing sandstone cliffs overlooking
long waterholes in which freshwater Crocodiles were sunning themselves. A most
interesting and enjoyable three hour walk.
 |
| Windjana Gorge |
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| A couple of the locals! |
We
departed Windjana early next morning, but 5 minutes too late to avoid being
caught up in the group of 55 Motorcyclists riding Postman’s small 110cc Hondas
on an annual Police fundraiser up the Gibb. Crazy – two riders were ‘thrown’ in
the first rough 20km back out to the Gibb Road junction, in addition to the WA
Police Commissioner who was unseated the previous day.
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| Motor Cyclists on Police Fundraiser |
Anyway,
we turned left for Derby and soon we were on the
‘black top’ with the horrors of the Gibb
River corrugations,
stones, river crossings, washouts and general ruggedness now behind us.
Derby
is a pretty little place on King Sound, with wide shaded streets, but no
definable CBD, has a sizable aboriginal presence and many Boab trees. We booked
in, then went exploring the town, taking in a large art exhibition, the old
gaol, hollow Boab Prison Tree, and waterfront at the port jetty.
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| Old "Open' Derby Gaol |
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| Hollow Boab Prison Tree |
Derby has the greatest tidal range of anywhere in Australia, up to 11.8 metres at HW
Springs. Nova Scotia's Bay of Fundy in Canada
has the world’s highest tidal range 15m.
Derby plays host to Western Australia’s
largest Indigenous cultural event, the annual Mowanjum Festival which
highlights West Kimberley aboriginal culture, encompassing
their art, with fully costumed corroborees, song and dance, all open to the
general public.
The
famous Wandjana art featured in Sydney’s
2000 Olympic Games opening ceremony.
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| Wandjana Spirit - Mowanjum Art |
Word
had reached us that the Jetty Restaurant at the Port was the best in town -
fine seafood dining watching the Sunset over the water, which we thoroughly
enjoyed the next night prior to departure the following morning.
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| Sunset at Jetty Restaurant, Derby |
About
100km south we stopped at the Nillibubbica Rest Area, joining 35/40 others for
the night, and by 7:15 next morning we’re on the 105km leg into Broome, with
its grossly inflated ‘seasonal’ campsite fees up to $60/day, but we’d heard the
Pistol Club had powered sites for $35 so we stopped there.
Broome was founded as a pearling port in the 1870’s and
remains steeped in the history of Pearls. Named for WA Governor Broome in 1883,
it is a colourful, welcoming touristy town based now on its cultured Pearl industry, since the 1950’s, and cattle grazing.
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| Roebuck Bay Foreshore |
The
town has a fresh, modern appearance, and
the bright turquoise waters of Roebuck
Bay contrast appealingly
with the red rocky foreshores of this unique peninsular.
Dampier
Terrace, the Street of Pearls in ‘old’ Broome’s Chinatown
is as vibrant as Surfers Paradise, and Saturday’s Arts and Crafts Market a plethora
of stalls. A Chinese lady makes lovely high quality Doonas, filled with cocoons
of imported natural pure Silk, and one of these now covers our bed.
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| Cable Beach at Sunset |
A
must do in Broome is to join the
throngs of people who watch tourist Camel Rides along Cable Beach at Sunset,
while enjoying nibbles and champagne from the grassy hilltop, and we did just
that. Another is to see the ‘Stairway to the Moon’, a natural phenomenon which
occurs at low tide when the Full Moon rises above the Horizon to reflect a stairway
reflection across tidal flats back to the viewer, which we’ll do this evening.
Tomorrow
we will depart Broome, destination ‘the 80 mile beach’ on our 100th.
day away.
We’ll
talk again soon
Bruce
and Audrey
14
July 2014
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